Thieboudienne (Ceebu Jen)

Story

Thieboudienne, whose name means 'rice with fish' in Wolof (ceeb = rice, jen = fish), is Senegal's national dish and the root from which all West African jollof rice variations grew. Oral tradition credits its invention to Penda Mbaye, a cook from the fishing village of Guet-Ndar in 19th-century Saint-Louis, who improvised with broken rice imported from French Indochina after the colony's barley supply ran out. Two ingredients define its depth that no other jollof shares: guedj (sun-dried, fermented fish) and yeet (dried, fermented sea snails), which function as an umami backbone. On 15 December 2021, UNESCO inscribed ceebu jen on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, a formal recognition that Senegal, not Nigeria or Ghana, holds the original in this centuries-long rice debate.

Ingredients

• 600g broken jasmine rice (or regular jasmine rice), soaked in cold water for 30 minutes
• 800g firm white fish steaks, such as snapper or grouper (about 4 pieces)
• 1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley
• 4 cloves garlic
• 1 scotch bonnet pepper
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• Salt to taste
• 100ml peanut oil or neutral vegetable oil
• 2 large onions, sliced
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 tablespoons guedj (dried fermented fish), roughly crumbled (optional but traditional)
• 1 tablespoon yeet (dried fermented sea snails), ground (optional but traditional)
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks
• 1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut into large chunks
• 1 small eggplant, cut into thick rounds
• 200g white cabbage, cut into 2 wedges
• 4 okra pods
• 2 habanero or scotch bonnet peppers, deseeded and sliced
• 1 litre hot water or fish stock
• 2 stock cubes

Method

• 1. In a mortar and pestle or small food processor, pound together the parsley, 2 cloves of garlic, the scotch bonnet, black pepper and a pinch of salt into a rough paste. This is the roff stuffing.
• 2. Cut 2 deep slits into the flesh of each fish steak and press the roff paste firmly inside. Rub any remaining paste over the outside. Set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes.
• 3. Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Fry the stuffed fish for 3 to 4 minutes per side until golden. Remove and set aside.
• 4. In the same oil, fry the sliced onions over medium heat until soft and beginning to caramelise, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped, and cook for 1 minute.
• 5. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 to 6 minutes until it darkens to a deep brick red.
• 6. Add the guedj and yeet if using, along with the crumbled stock cubes. Stir to combine.
• 7. Pour in the hot water or fish stock and bring to a boil. Add the habanero peppers and season generously with salt.
• 8. Add the carrots, sweet potato and eggplant to the broth and simmer for 15 minutes.
• 9. Add the cabbage and okra and cook for a further 10 minutes, until all the vegetables are tender but not falling apart. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon and set aside.
• 10. Gently lower the fried fish back into the broth and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the fish and set aside, keeping the broth in the pot.
• 11. Drain the soaked rice and add it to the pot with the broth. The liquid should just cover the rice by about 1cm; add water if needed. Stir in a teaspoon of smoked paprika for colour.
• 12. Bring to a simmer, cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 20 to 25 minutes until the rice is cooked and the liquid absorbed. Traditional thieboudienne allows a crust (called xoon) to form on the bottom of the pot; this is prized and should be gently scraped up when serving.
• 13. Spread the rice on a large platter and arrange the fish and vegetables on top. Serve immediately.

Common questions