Moroccan Couscous with Seven Vegetables

Story

Couscous is among the oldest known foods of the Maghreb: cooking vessels resembling couscoussiers have been found in Berber burial sites in present-day Algeria dating to the 3rd century BC, during the reign of the Numidian kings, and the first written recipe appears in a 13th-century Andalusian cookbook. The word itself comes from the Amazigh (Berber) root kseksu, meaning well-formed or well-rounded, a reminder that the dish predates Arab, Ottoman, and French influence in North Africa by centuries. In December 2020, Algeria, Mauritania, Morocco, and Tunisia filed a joint UNESCO nomination, the first time the four countries cooperated on a cultural heritage project, and couscous was inscribed on the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in recognition of a tradition maintained equally by women and men across nomadic and urban communities.

Ingredients

• For the lamb and broth:
• 800 g bone-in lamb shoulder or 2 lamb shanks
• 1 large onion, grated
• 3 ripe tomatoes, grated, skins discarded
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 0.5 teaspoon saffron threads, bloomed in 2 tablespoons warm water
• 1.5 teaspoons ras el hanout
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 0.5 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 400 g canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained
• 1 small bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley and coriander, tied together
• For the seven vegetables:
• 3 large carrots, peeled and halved crosswise
• 2 turnips, peeled and quartered
• 200 g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and cut into large chunks
• 0.25 head white cabbage, cut into 2 wedges
• 2 medium courgettes, halved lengthwise
• 2 celery stalks with leaves, cut in thirds
• 50 g golden raisins
• For the couscous:
• 500 g medium-grain semolina couscous, not instant
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
• 0.5 teaspoon fine salt

Method

• 1. Season the lamb generously all over with salt, pepper, ras el hanout, turmeric, and ginger. Heat the olive oil in the base of a couscoussier or large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Brown the lamb on all sides, turning every 3 to 4 minutes, until deeply coloured. Remove and set aside.
• 2. Reduce heat to medium. In the same pot cook the grated onion, scraping up any browned bits, for 5 minutes until soft and golden. Add the grated tomatoes, saffron water, ground coriander, and cinnamon. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring, until the tomato deepens in colour and the spices bloom.
• 3. Return the lamb to the pot. Add the herb bunch and the chickpeas. Pour over enough cold water to just submerge the meat, about 1.2 litres. Bring to a rolling boil, skim off any grey foam, then reduce to a very gentle simmer. Cover with the lid slightly ajar and braise for 1 hour, turning the meat once.
• 4. Meanwhile prepare the couscous for its first steam: place in a large bowl, drizzle with olive oil and rub the grains between your palms to coat each granule. Pour over 250 ml cold water in a slow stream, tossing with a fork as you go. Spread the moistened couscous loosely in the perforated steamer basket. Do not press down.
• 5. After the lamb has braised for 1 hour, set the steamer basket over the simmering pot, sealing the join with a folded damp cloth to trap steam. Steam the couscous for 15 to 20 minutes until you see steam rising through the grains. Tip back into the bowl, break up any lumps with a fork, work in the butter and a pinch of salt, and allow to rest.
• 6. Add the carrots and turnips to the broth. After 15 minutes add the pumpkin and cabbage. After a further 10 minutes add the courgettes and celery. After another 10 minutes add the golden raisins. Taste the broth and adjust salt. It should be rich, golden, and deeply aromatic.
• 7. Return the couscous to the steamer for a second steam of 15 minutes over the now vegetable-rich broth. This final pass allows the grains to absorb the fragrant steam and finish light and separate.
• 8. To serve: mound the couscous in a large dome on a wide serving platter. Ladle a generous amount of hot broth over the grain to moisten it. Arrange the lamb pieces in the centre and place the vegetables around them in alternating colours. Pour additional broth into a jug to pass at the table. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves.

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